I am putting some of my porcelain sculpture necklaces on Etsy. But now I have to take really good photos of them.
Timing: is everything
High noon: good for shoot outs and harsh strong shadows
Morning or evening: Nice soft shadows!
Flash news: diffuse the flash
The flash is our friend but it can be too flashy! You don’t want hot spots of white on your shiny stuff or light parts of your picture blown out with too much light. So what’s a girl to do?
- Put a piece of white tissue paper over the flash. It will result a brighter picture but without the distracting, overexposed bright spots.
- Have external spotlight shine through sheet or vellum and not use the flash
- Use filtered morning light through a sheer drape
White: The plain white background has an advantage: it is easier to photograph, and easier to take in visually. Using white as background has one more advantage: it intensifies the light, so it can help in taking photos of a darker item. Here’s one way to make a light box.
Patterns: Material, books writing, outside, whatever works with the piece . But be careful that you keep the jewelry the most important part. Don’t get too busy. (often my problem)
Contrast: Put a dark piece on light background nd a light piece on dark. A simple piece on busy background and a busy piece on simple background.
Soft shadows: Use a piece of velour or velvet to absorb light .
Take the time to check out these really cool photo combined with video. Just a tiny piece is moving – very fun!
I found a tutorial on how to do this! I so want to try it.
An Aesthetic Discourse. -Christopher
Christopher talks about how he attempted to do it-
“So what I did was to pull the video into Photoshop, choose the section of video I wanted, saved the video, and then imported video frames as layers.
Note: If you need to open up Photoshop in 32-bit mode on a mac, just right click the program, click “Get info” and then check the “open in 32-bit mode” option. You will now be able to import video frames as layers.
Once I had the layers in I cropped the photo and masked out the area I wanted to present in the photo as moving. In this case, I had an easy job doing so because the background (and foreground) wasn’t altered around the men talking. This is the longest part of the process.
One thing I was not able to figure out was how to make the last frame and the first frame flawlessly flow together. To remedy this I just reversed the frames. This will not always work, though.
At the end I selected “New Layers Visible in All Frames” under the animation menu and made new adjustment layers to edit levels and curves and such. This way I was able to edit every layer below at the same time.
Here is my finished GIF:
Here are some tips that I have learned in attempting my own cinemagraph:
- When beginning, choose a subject that is not being interfered with much, if at all.
- Choose a background that is not changing (for instance, a brick wall or building. Trees are constantly moving and will provide much of a challenge your first time through.
- Do not use photos, the best option is video.